We also have a webpage dedicated to Commonly Reported HVAC Problems. I hope you can get it fixed soon! Please advise. Make sure the breaker is OK and working by testing it with a volt meter. If I turn off the system, (off at the thermostat), for a few hours it runs fine again for 10-15 min then starts the whole cycle again. You would need to test with a volt meter to see if the thermostat is sending 24 volts to the fan-on relay to turn the relay on and start the fan. What could be the issue? It is a Lennox unit (both furnace/air handler and condenser. I disconnect the power and saw the burned and stuck down contactor. I actually had a new thermostat and control board for a spare so I changed them along with the sequencers. Looking at your site I am wondering if it may be the capacitor or some other cause than just the ducts won’t handle the excess flow of air from our new super unit. I bought two. I hope that I have answered your question. If you aren’t getting 24 volts between these two terminals then you might have a thermostat problem or a thermostat wire problem. If it were me I would suggest keeping an ignitor and flame sensor the least expensive parts. Is this acceptable? Please let me know what you advise as I desire to get my AC back on soon. I changed the run capacitor and added a hard start to it thinking this is what was needed. Here is my current wiring from the old setup. I am so very sorry to hear that someone did bad work which resulted in your heat pump failure with lots of lost money, heat and air conditioning! If your home warranty contractor is using the same Copeland scroll compressor as what came out of your existing unit then I would say this would be A-OK since you are getting the same compressor installed. I hope you have a blessed Memorial Day Weekend! This could be 24 volt power or 110 volt power. My daughter just called to tell me that after she turned on the furnace she smelled something coming from the vents. Cram.com makes it easy to get the grade you want! If you want me to look up parts please send your furnace’s model number and I will give you a parts list. What can I replace it with? Steve. If these are all closed and you are not getting 110 volts to the ignitor then you might have a control board problem. In my experience most of the time the vibration is caused by a piece of paper or debris that has been sucked up into the blower wheel and causes it to be out of balance. Freon group of refrigerants are (A) Inflammable (B) … Please make sure all thermostat wires are good and tight because a loose wire can cause high amp draw and run your batteries down. It even does it with the thermostat turned to the off position. Sorry that I can not be of much help. Thanks you so much for asking this question! The most common cause most of the time is because the system is low on refrigerant charge. This is just a solution I found on those 2 stage gas valves controled by a thermocouple and a thermopile . If you do not then you either have a broken wire or a thermostat problem. I learned alot from my mistakes and I never want to make that mistake again! If this is an older unit more than 10 years old it should use R22. When the low side pulls down to zero when the unit turns on this is a sure sign of being low on refrigerant charge or having a restriction in the system. Your email address will not be published. By using these free ASE test questions and study guides, you’ll know where to focus on your Heating & Air Conditioning knowledge and know which study guides to review and practice. i installed a new revolv hvac system about 6 years ago and the blower has always been loud.do you think the fan blades are wrong.the old unit was not as loud as the new unit is. I have a Sensi Wi-Fi thermostat and love it. Hi Jay! A light brown wire connects to the lead labeled “XFMR” (near the black, blue and red wires and leads)… the other white wire coming from the transformer connects to a neutral lead. If it doesn’t then you might need a new blower motor. You might need a new control board if this is the case. Yes, if you have high head pressure and low suction pressure then you probably either have a stopped up cap tube, bad TXV valve, dirty condensing unit or a slow condenser fan motor. This should not have anything to do with the high voltage side on your unit such as the capacitor. The coil got frozen earlier and installer replaced TXV on both but didn’t help. So if you have a heat pump then what you heard might be normal. I have seen compressor blown up when lighting strikes. Steve. I have a problem with a furnace (located in a ceiling attic) that loses power when it gets very hot outside, say over 100 degrees. Yes, from your description it does sound like a transformer issue or a loose wire on the primary or secondary side of the transformer. I hope your post with help others with a similar problem. I forgot to add that the high pressure side is getting up over 630. The vibration at times is excessive. What I learned was that this well-known, established company, who had replaced my “outer blower motor” 5 years earlier had removed a wiring protective tube (that came with my unit) where the 220v wires were supposed to be run – and had directly zipped tied them to my copper discharge tube. I would also suggest that you check for a loose fuse if the furnace is equipped with a fuse. If the fan is getting the 220 volts and cutting off then you either need a new fan motor or capacitor. I have also used volt meter down at the furnace C&R (matching the thermastat) and it also shows 27V going to 0, and then 60 seconds later everything comes back. Hi Mr. Taylor! The thermostat wires from the thermostat usually junction inside the indoor air handler. I am very sorry for your time and trouble. About 10 minutes later, I heard the unit come back on! More than likely the problem is that it is too hot to work in the attic. Mr. Misner writes:“The problem was that my propane furnace would quit working and by the time the service man arrived it was working again and since no one could find the problem I depended on my fireplace insert for most of my heat. Steve. I can not find a Lennox parts supplier here in Louisville, KY. where I can call for information and purchase parts. It’s a split system and I noticed the R22 was let out somewhere near the bottom of the compressor. Inside and outside ciols aren’t clogged. If it is a bad compressor you should be able to purchase a new R22 compressor and have it installed. He says it will go directly to my house electrical panel. Steve. Steve. If the motor is pretty hot you might have a blower motor problem (might need a new motor) or the motor might need a new run capacitor. My HVAC guy said the head pressure was too high so it was shutting itself down until the pressure stabilized then came back on. When I installed my own furnace and AC at my home I paid to get a permit so there will be no questions asked when I want to sell our home in the future. If the furnace is not installed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations you might start having trouble with the pressure switch not allowing the furnace to operate and the furnace will lock out. Thanks so much for asking this great question. Steve. You should be getting 24 to 28 volts between R and C on the thermostat. These brackets help hold the heat exchanger in place and it they become loose they can rattle and make lots of noise. I would suggest making sure all connections to the board are good and tight. Here in Louisville, KY. HVAC contractors are required to do a heat loss, heat gain calculation on all homes before being allowed to get a permit to do the installation. The contractor that came out is trying to order a Rheem 4-ton compressor to replace the Carrier compressor that came in the unit. Send me your unit’s model number if you would like for me to look up your unit’s motor part number. Thanks for any help. If you do, check if your condensate line is clogged. I Googled the topic “R26 fuse” and got no-where. If the capacitor is in good shape I would suggest that you try installing a hard start booster like the SPP6 that we sell on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/product/supco-spp6-compressor-hard-start-booster-capacitor/ I would recommend turning off the power after the unit runs for a while and see if the compressor is hot on top. It made no difference. I called my Bryant Carrier supplier and they said that you could install the two stage Carrier AC with a single stage furnace, but the AC (outdoor unit) should only work on one speed. You will need to test this starting at the thermostat. I hope this answers your question. So here we go. Here is a list of some common HVAC questions that users of air conditioners or heat pumps asked regarding their equipment. I hope you have a great day and weekend! I am sorry, but I have never heard of an R26 250 volt fuse. Thanks for asking this question. Loud blower noises can be caused by several things: (1) Blower wheel off balance and vibrates (2) loose blower motor bears which cause blower wheel vibration and wobble (3) too large of a blower or too much air flow for the duct work. You have already completed the quiz before. We Have Promptly Shipped Over 350,000 Orders Since 2002! This sounds like your air conditioning/heat pump system is low on refrigerant charge. If the compressor is running then this is a sure sign the valves on the compressor have blown or the compressor high pressure relief valve has not reset. Brown marks on control boards indicate excessive heat which is caused most of the time by arcing. The indoor blower fan stopped working. The thermostat was set to “cool” but warm air was coming from the vents. Most of the time it is from a loose connection. I hope that it is only the control board. Compressors that over-heat can be caused by dirty outside coils, slow fan motors, (might need a new capacitor) could be low on refrigerant charge. I would deeply and sincerely appreciate any guidance you can offer. If the voltage goes down below 110 volts then you will need to increase the output of your generator, use a larger power cord (10 guage) or you might need a new contactor. The compressor thermal over-load has just so many resets and then you will need a new compressor or a new unit. Flipping breakers doesn’t bring it back to life. I would ask my local HVAC guy but he didn’t respond to two calls. Steve Arnold, On a RUDD heatpump with the entire unit on the outside. We have a troubleshooting question and answer page which has many questions with YouTube troubleshooting videos on the following page: https://arnoldservice.com/air-conditioning-heat-pump-troubleshooting-questions-answers-index/ I hope you can find and fix this problem easily. I have seen weak transformers, weak batteries in a thermostat and shorted thermostat wires cause this problem. To complicate matters, replacing it would be difficult given limited roof access (requiring a crane) and limited space (contractor put all these old units really close to one another). I have a 93% efficient furnace but when changing a breaker the return wire became caught against a 20amp hot line. You might have to tape your blower door safety switch down so you can test the furnace with the furnace door off. or does the sequencer not have anything to do with it at all? Thank you so very much for telling us how you solved the problem! I noticed that there was no LPG odor so I went online and came across this web-site: You would need to test some controls to see what the problem is. Sorry you are having problems! lenny_labita. I just replaced the motherboard. It sits right outside my house. I have found pieces of paper and lint in blower wheels that cause them to be off balance and rattle. Hi! Thanks so much for the question and solution to the problem. Hi Will! It is very hard on the compressor to run without enough refrigerate because a low on charge system will allow the compressor to over-heat, melt the compressor motor windings and burn the compressor up over time. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Test yourself to see how much you know about the indispensable air conditioner. Otherwise, they have good reviews, but it sounds really weird and temporary to me. The switch is a safety against water overflow. STUDY. The right answer is to have an EPA certified technician to remove the refrigerant before anyone can disassemble the unit. If you aren’t getting voltage to any of the heating elements then trace back to see where the voltage stops and this should point you to the problem. A loose connection can cause high amp draw and blow a fuse on the board. With the pressure a 240 and 55 psi and with using R22 as the refrigerant this shows that the system is low on charge. Hi Carlos! I would not repair this unit because if the unit ran anytime with the hole in the refrigerant lines then this contaminated the whole system with air dirt and moisture. You will need to possibly get under the black insulation and feel the bare copper line. Here is a good YouTube video that discusses metering devices. I now have a new system with a V.S speed fan and 24v control. between terminals R and C (com) and between terminals Y and C and between terminals G and C. All of these should give you a reading of 24 to 28 volts AC. By clicking on a question, it will take you to a webpage discussing the question along with detailed answers. My outside compressor fan gets hung up every once in awhile after being away from my home for a few weeks. I had an older air handling unit that I simply opened and closed the green wire to use the fan in the past. A problem that can cause contactors to fail quick is if the contactor is not getting enough low voltage to the coil. Some transformers have an in-line fuse in case of a short it does not burn all the low voltage controls up. Sorry to hear that you are having this problem with fitting the air handler into your attic. I hope you can get this fixed. hello…my rv a/c compressor is not coming on or when it does i can tell that is running very slow. The most important thing to find out is what caused the compressor to fail in the first place. If it is hot you might need a new capacitor or a new blower motor. I have a question. The next time that the blower will not start I would suggest turning off the power to your furnace or air handler and lightly touch the blower motor to see if it is hot. Hi Mike! Here we have gathered together all of the original Test Questions submitted by HVAC-Talk Founder, Don Sleeth, along with all the brain busters by NormChris and others. If the installer installed a blower that is too large for the duct work that you have then this will be noisy. Had this problem for 6 years. On our furnace the control board and draft inducer are real expensive over $250 each. Steve. Is this the starter capacitor, you think? Recently these units are replaced along with both furnaces. Hello – I am trying to install a Smart Thermostat and not getting 24v on the C wire. You should be able to attach the thermostat wires together R, G and Y. Is this normal practice, or just a way for the home warranty company to cut costs? does it even pass 24 volts to the contactor,?? Thank you for any help! The mass flow rate of water to the cooling tower is 590 gpm Solution for HVAC Question #2. Would it be acceptable to allow them to use the Rheem compressor? I’m from Portland OR where the humidity is fairly high in the winter…, Bryant Carrier 3 Wire Pilot Burner Problem Resolved. If the refrigerant has acid in it the technician has to pay for the refrigerant to be processed. This problem can be hard to find, unless you can troubleshoot the problem when it occurs. Between red and black would be 220 to 245 volts and between red to white and black to white would be 120 volts. Today while putting on the jumper cable I accidentally touched something ( I don’t know what) and there was a spark, something shorted out and there now seems to be no power going to the motor. If you aren’t then you might have a control board problem. Comment. I would suggest testing to see if you are getting 110 volts to the ignitor from the control board when the ignitor should be glowing. I have some troubleshooting tips on the following page: I would start with testing the thermostat to make sure it is getting a constant 24 to 28 volts between the W and C (com) wires when calling for heat. I would suggest checking your low voltage at the control board. I hope that I have given you some insight on what to look for. Hi Dave! Most of the time the sequencers are used to energize heating elements and to start the blower motor, but not connected to the contactor in anyway. I am sorry, but I do not know anything about the Riello 50 f5 you are have installed. Research results say to have an EPA certified technician remove the refrigerant before anyone can disassemble the unit. The only other reason that I can see that would cause this problem would be if the control board is wired wrong, or if you have a faulty control board. Who is the inventor of the modern air conditioner? Steve. I sure do appreciate your nice comments! They are phasing out R22 units so you will need to replace both the outdoor unit and the evaporator coil with new equipment using the new refrigerant R-410A. If it doesn’t then you have a tight motor bearing and need to replace the motor. Here’s what I found out. Thank you. I have seen other vibration noises on Goodman units that are caused by having loose heat exchanger mounting brackets. I’ve also replaced the fuse on the furnace board, and it doesn’t make a difference. Lead to the contactor coil is getting 24 volts then this would solve my furnace shut! 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